The Golden Age of Adornment: A Beginner’s Guide to Tang Dynasty Jewelry
Introduction
Imagine walking through 8th-century Chang’an – the world’s most cosmopolitan city – where noblewomen’s hairpins glint with Persian motifs, and merchant stalls display gemstones from Samarkand. This was the reality of Tang Dynasty (618–907 CE) jewelry, a golden era where craftsmanship met cultural fusion. For today’s collectors and designers, these artifacts remain astonishingly relevant.
Part 1: Tang Jewelry 101 – Styles, Symbols & Techniques
1. Iconic Pieces (And How to Spot Them)
Tang women loved dramatic hairstyles (think: gravity-defying buns), requiring sturdy yet ornate accessories:
| Type | Description | Modern Equivalent |
|---|---|---|
| Buyao (步摇) | Hairpins with dangling charms that “step-and-sway” | Chandelier earrings |
| Huadian (花钿) | Forehead gold/silver floral appliqués | Metallic face gems (e.g., Euphoria makeup trends) |
| Jinque Chai (金雀钗) | Phoenix-shaped pins (Poet Bai Juyi’s favorite) | Jennifer Behr birdcage hairpins |
Pro Tip: Genuine Tang hairpins have asymmetrical designs – machine-made fakes are too perfect.
2. Nature-Inspired Motifs
- Peonies = Wealth (the “king of flowers” in Tang culture)
- Phoenixes = Feminine power (often worn by court officials like Shangguan Wan’er)
- Lions = Imported from Persia, symbolizing protection (see the Lion & Magpie Hairpin at Guimet Museum)
3. Craftsmanship Secrets
Archaeologists have identified 14 goldsmithing techniques from Tang records, but these three stand out:
- Filigree (捻金) – Twisted gold wires forming lace-like patterns (requires 10x magnification to appreciate).
- Repoussé (錾刻) – Hammering designs from the reverse to create 3D effects (used on Buddhist Kalavinka pins).
- Gem Inlay (嵌金) – Turquoise/carnelian from the Silk Road (test with UV light – ancient stones show wear patterns).
Part 2: Why Tang Jewelry Still Matters
1. Cultural Remixing
The Tang capital hosted 25,000 foreigners, leading to wild style mashups:
- Sogdian (粟特) Influence: Grapevine motifs on hair combs.
- Indian Buddhism: Mythical Kalavinka bird motifs (half-woman, half-bird).
Fun Fact: A Tang tomb in Xi’an contained a gold cup with Greek-inspired Dionysus figures!
2. Feminist bling?
While still a patriarchal society, Tang offered women unprecedented freedom:
- Career Jewelry: Official-rank hairpins for court ladies (like the jade fengguan headdress).
- Self-Expression: Eccentric pieces like silver “drunken concubine” earrings.
Collecting Like a Pro
Red Flags (Common Fakes)
- “Too Complete”: Authentic Tang pieces often show repair marks (they were heirlooms).
- Wrong Metals: Tang gold is 18–22K (modern 24K looks unnaturally yellow).
Where to Start
- Affordable: Song Dynasty replicas (they copied Tang styles but used more copper).
- Investment Grade: Look for Hejiacun Hoard-style pieces (a 1970s discovery of buried Tang bling).
Conclusion: Timeless Glamour
From Rihanna’s Met Gala headdresses to Van Cleef’s peony collections, Tang Dynasty jewelry’s legacy thrives. As the ancients said: “A woman’s hairpin tells her story without words.”
Read More
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- Collectors' Academy (91)
- Investment Academy (18)
- Jade Crafting Techniques (28)
- Michelle Au: The Gemstone Luminary (11)
