Pearl: The Queen of Gems – A Comprehensive Guide

Pearl necklace restringing: Silk thread vs. modern synthetics

Introduction

Pearl (珍珠 Zhēnzhū), revered as the “珍宝皇后” (Queen of Gems) in Chinese culture, is nature’s only organic gemstone formed within mollusks. Archaeological evidence—such as Neolithic pearl ornaments from Shaanxi’s Anban site (5,000 BCE) and Warring States-era (475–221 BCE) pearl pendants from Shanxi—reveals its 7,000-year legacy in East Asia. Unlike mined gems, pearls embody a unique harmony between biology and geology.

Physical & Chemical Properties

Composition:
82–86% CaCO₃ (aragonite crystals).
10–14% conchiolin (organic “glue”).
2–4% water.
Hardness: 2.5–4.5 on Mohs scale (prone to scratching).
Optical Traits:
Luster: “Oriental” glow from light diffraction in nacre layers.
Fluorescence: Natural black pearls glow pink under UV (distinguishing them from dyed fakes).

Key Fact:
Saltwater pearls (e.g., Akoya) have thicker nacre than freshwater pearls due to longer growth periods.

Color & Classification

1. Natural vs. Cultured

Natural: Rare “wild” pearls (e.g., Gulf pearls).
Cultured:
Saltwater: Bead-nucleated (Akoya, South Sea).
Freshwater: Tissue-nucleated (China dominates global production).

2. Color Spectrum

Body Colors: White, cream, black (Tahiti), golden (Philippines).
Overtones: Rose (粉伴色), green (綠伴色), blue (藍伴色).

Grading:

AAA: Blemish-free, round, >8mm (e.g., Ming Dynasty “精圓珠”).
A: Slightly off-round (清代 “木莊珠”).

Historical & Cultural Significance

Imperial China:
Qing Dynasty: “Eastern Pearls” (東珠) from Manchuria were reserved for emperors.
Mythology: Symbolized the moon’s tears in Daoist texts.
Global Trade:
Marco Polo: Documented pearl fishing in Guangdong’s Nan Zhu (南珠) beds.

Sustainable Sources

China:
Freshwater: Zhejiang’s Qiandao Lake (90% of global supply).
Saltwater: Hainan’s Lingshui Bay (revived traditional Akoya farms).
Ethical Concerns:
Avoid “bleached” pearls; seek GIA-certified untreated strands.

Craftsmanship & Modern Uses

Traditional Designs:
Qing Hairpins: Pearl clusters with kingfisher feathers.
Ming Necklaces: Graduated pearls with gold spacers.
Care Tips:
Storage: Separate from hard gems to prevent nacre damage.
Cleaning: Wipe with damp cloth (no ultrasonic cleaners).

Did You Know?
Pearls dissolve in vinegar—a test used by Cleopatra to win a bet against Marc Antony.

Why Pearls?

Timeless Elegance: Worn by Empress Dowager Cixi and Coco Chanel.
Scientific Wonder: Each layer records the mollusk’s life like tree rings.

Pearl necklace restringing: Silk thread vs. modern synthetics. Explore pearls’ legacy at VirtuCasa.com.

Pearl: The Queen of Gems – A Comprehensive Guide